The
Virtues of Pemba
Pemba,
an island group off the coast of Tanzania is not virgin diving
territory. People have been there before, but it can claim
the virtue of relatively unspoiled water, with abundant marine
life and almost untouched by the outside world. Diving Pemba
and the live-aboard M Y Kisiwani can take you there.
Pemba
is an island group to the north of the Zanzibar archipelago.
Pemba Island is a mosaic of forest, swamps, mangroves and
lagoons is scattered with ruined mosques and tombs, now reclaimed
by the forest. These sites date back to the Arab conquest
of the 10th century. Until British intervention in the 19th
century, the islands were a crucial staging post in the Arab-controlled
slave trade. It was not only Islam that ruled these shores:
Pemba is the last bastion of African witchcraft; it is said
witch doctors come from all over Africa to probe the deepest
mysteries of voodoo. Today the cult still flourishes beneath
the surface. What lies beneath the water's surface is equally
bewitching. In the channels between the islands are submerged
reefs, thickly crusted with a mixture of sponges, corals and
seaweed. In the water above, schools of manta rays feed on
the rich supply of plankton. Diving typically takes place
in any one of the narrow channels between islands where currents
may drift you along at anything up to six knots. Pemba is
also noted for its superb night diving where a motley crew
of nudibranchs, pleurobranchs, squid, mantis shrimps and other
strange life-forms come out of hiding.
Pemba
has more interesting, more varied and often more spectacular
diving than anywhere in East Africa, which easily justifies
the additional cost of getting there. Spectacular underwater
sights, stunning blue-water drop-offs, magnificent hard and
soft coral gardens, magnificent scenery, a sparkling clear
blue sea - everything combines to ensure the diving holiday
of a lifetime,
Diving
throughout the season is rich and varied. There are a number
of pelagics, including whale sharks, which migrate through
the Pemba Channel southwards towards their feeding ground
in the southern oceans during late July, August, September
and October. Pilot whales and numerous dolphin species can
be seen in the channel throughout the season. Manta and eagle
rays, barracuda and tuna are also spotted in and around the
water of Pemba Island through the season. November sees the
wind changing round to the north-east monsoon and at this
time of the year the surface of the water often resembles
a millpond and slack currents make for easier diving. In January,
February, March and April, when the wind is coming in from
the north-east, and if we are ale to go around the eastern
coast of Pemba Island to Mtangani, there can be large numbers
of hammerhead sharks, dolphins, turtles and dog-tooth tuna.
White tip, leopard and grey reef sharks are frequently spotted
too, but it is the hammerheads that steal the show and there
have been many close encounters. These wonderful creatures
are spotted on a regular basis around Manta Reef and we have
seen Striped Marlin on a number of occasions. Coral spawning
usually takes place during the equinox months when the sun
is directly over the equator, this in turn attracts huge numbers
of krill, drawn to the coast by the prospect of feeding on
the eggs.
Our
night diving is our speciality and it is absolutely superb.
Spanish dances, giant nudibranches, pleurobraches, basket
starts, brittle stars, frog fish, squid, mantis shrimps ,
turtles, puffer fish, octopus, ribbon tailed eels, cuttlefish
with the phosphorescent Indian Ocean only adding to the magic,
Welcome
to Diving Pemba. Welcome to M Y Kisiwani.
Jacques
Cousteau once remarked that Pemba rates as one of the best
dive sites he had ever seen - an accolade it comfortably lives
up to. We have explored and charted numerous spectacular dive
sites around Pemba Island, a few of which are listed here
- Manta Point, Mesali Island (a protected marine park), wreck
of SS Parapotiani, Fundu Lagoon, Mtangani, Mchengazi, Ras
Miungani.
A
one week's cruise will take you to a variety of sites around
the Island. We include the coral clad western side and some
superb drift dives around Manta Point to the north, and the
wreck of the Parapotiani in the south. If the weather allows
M Y Kisiwani will do a day trip to the deep blue diving on
the eastern side
No two weeks are the same and every day holds a new surprise.
TANZANIA,
A LAND OF SUPRISES!
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