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Kisiwani offers live-aboard holidays around Pemba Island with
3 - 4 dives per day, including night dives, with experienced
and knowledgeable guides and instructors.
Manta
Point
Murphy's Law would suggest that Manta Point, North Pemba,
would be the last place to go diving for its namesake, but
it is infact a fine location. As many as eight of the beasts
have been seen here on a single dive. Like storm clouds, they
gather above the seamount, then sweep down over the sandy
gullies, their shadows passing silently across the reef. Manta
point is essentially a chain of three seamounts, topped by
gardens of purple anemones. In the sandy rubble between the
coral heads have been seen fat red frogfish and a delicate
blue and yellow ribbon eel withdrawing into its hole as shoals
of black snapper pass overhead.
Mesali
Island
Mesali Island, South Pemba, is named after the Swahili Msala,
meaning a prayer mat, because it points towards Mecca. The
island makes the archetypal tropical paradise with its palm
trees, azure water and white sandy beaches where turtles nest.
Leaf fish live on this very reef. They live nested at the
centre of small concave table coral, purple in colour and
waving gently in the swell. Beneath the table, staring up
at it, lives its yellow partner. This reef does not run out
of surprises. You can add stonefish, green turtles, and the
olive-ridley turtle to the list!
Emerald
Reef/Ras Miungani
At the southernmost point of Pemba Island is Emerald Reef.
Washed by the cooler southerly currents, it has a different
mix of plants and corals. Among them is the lurid green 'grape
weed' that lends the reef its colour. A steep cleft in the
reef at 45 m is home to literally dozens of pig-sized groupers,
including the potato cod, malahar marbled and giant varieties.
Fat and lethargic, they peer from their holes. In the clear
water above, vast schools of blackfin barracuda and horse-eye
jacks like to patrol. Rainbow runners and spanish mackerel
also cruise by. On the shallow reef shelter schools of humpbacked
and bluelined snappers, oriental sweetlips and yet more fat,
docile groupers. This site is visited as a day trip. We do
not anchor overnight.
S
S Paraportiani
Inside a neighbouring lagoon lies the wreck of the Paraportiani,
sunk in a storm in 1967. Over 100 m long, she lies broken
on the shallow seabed. The stern is intact, its phosphor-bronze
propeller still clearly visible above the white sand. A large
helm is still in place on the aft deck, giving her the appearance
of a much older ship. To say this wreck is well-colonised
is an understatement. Every surface is encrusted in sponges,
corals and weeds. Every nook is crawling with shrimps or crabs
and oozing with flatworms and neudibranches. There are the
inevitable glassfish that colonize every tropical wreck and
great herds of bumphead parrotfish grazing algae from the
hull. Like any reef in Pemba, there are also large schools
of moorish idols.
Mtangani
and Mchengazi
Mtangani and Mchengazi on the east coast of Pemba have the
steep walls and strong oceanic currents which are ideal for
pelagic life and the diving here focuses on looking for pelagic
fish. Strings of hammerhead and reef sharks, trevally, tuna
and barracuda are common. Diving on the east coast is dependant
upon the weather and sea conditions and is only recommended
for those with PADI Advanced or equivalent.
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